Making Contact: ODD END and the circular economy
ODD END Studio
ODD END studio is a sustainable accessories brand that came to fruition during the UK lockdown (Part 1) in 2020. It’s run by the effortlessly cool Turkish born Gizem and Bahar who met studying design in Istanbul ten years ago. Their brand creates cool utilitarian accessories using up-cycled fabrics or end of line fabric and is distributed in fully recyclable packaging. Their range includes slick and Scandi looking canvas bags and clutch purses (the ones that go in your massive bags) that are perfectly accented with lick of embroidery or extra pockets.
I discovered them through endless scrolling on Instagram at 3am - this has become one of the common pastimes of late - I call it the ‘3am heart-racer’. But I already knew Bahar as we met working in a pizza restaurant during a lull between freelance work a while ago. In fact, side note, most of the people I met working in that pizza restaurant were very interesting, down to earth and in tune the realities of being both creative and self sufficient living in London. I digress; without further ado here are five Making Contact questions answered by ODD END’s Bahar:
Hello Bahar, I loved reading your statement on Instagram about how you got started in 2020. How has the pandemic influenced your business decisions and what changes have you made in other areas of your life to accommodate ODD END?
We decided to establish ODD END in February 2020, just before the first UK lockdown. So the pandemic has had a huge impact on every decision we’ve made. Before the lockdown we had quite busy schedules as our day jobs were intense. We were doing research on the circular economy, sustainability and waste problems. Gizem and I met every weekend to talk about them and to throw some design ideas around. With ODD END our initial idea was to collaborate with people to produce the products but after the lockdown, almost everything we planned dramatically changed. Our day jobs were on hold, so we had time more than we thought we would ever have but at the same time, we were not able to work with people or come together for our weekly meetings.
So we had to adapt to the situation quickly. We decided to move in together, set-up a studio in the living room and bought a sewing machine to develop our primitive sewing skills. For months, we worked every day. More than ten hours a day - yeah it got a bit intense! But I think becoming completely self-sufficient was the best thing we’ve ever done. We still operate the same way and do everything in our home studio.
The pandemic pushed us in the right direction. But there were still downsides. In the first months all our potential fabric suppliers closed. We planned to sell our products in like-minded retail shops to reach more people but as the shops are still closed our plan is on hold. Our online presence is even more important as it’s become the only way to promote our brand and speak to customers.
ODD END Mono Pale Pink Pouch Bag & Clutch
Tell me about your working relationship? How do you divide the labour?
We both do everything and the rest of it is about the unspoken agreements and instant decisions depending on how we feel about a task. As we’ve been good friends for ten years and worked on projects before we have a great organic dynamic. We know it’s not really a business-minded situation but we like to keep it this way. We want to keep ODD END personal and our dynamic is directly linked to our friendship.
For example, I know Gizem doesn’t like writing long text so if we need to do that, we talk about it and I leave her alone, sit down and write it. She knows I’m impatient, so if she sees me doing unstitching or editing a photo in pain she takes over and sends me for a break. We don’t know what will happen in the future but it has worked great for us so far.
Can you tell us a bit more about how you source your materials and what lengths you go to keep things sustainable?
We only use locally sourced leftover excess fabric.
It’s a different process to buying fabric from a mainstream supplier. At the moment, we have two suppliers that sell manufacturing ends or excess fabric online. This is more of a straightforward process. We also found manufacturers whom don’t usually do this, they produce great quality material and are open to contact. If they agree to give the unwanted material to us, we either go to the warehouse to collect them or arrange a collection. It’s fabric hunting!
We believe in the power of responsible production to create sustainable futures. In every step of our business, we do our best to minimise our carbon footprint and waste. It’s not only the material we use. We also produce our products locally and ethically. We will keep it this way when we have to grow and work with other people.
We also use zero waste patterns, this means eliminating the odd spaces between the pieces we cut for the products, designing pattern pieces that interlock like puzzle pieces ensuring no fabric is wasted during the cutting phase. Roughly 15% of the total fabric used by the fashion industry is wasted, which is just another way that fast fashion negatively impacts the environment - what a disaster!
In addition to these, everything we use for packaging is locally sourced, recycled and can be recycled again.
I’ve seen your gorgeous bags and clutches, but what else do you make? Do you make things to order? Tell us about HUE (featured below)?
Thank you, Hayley. We’re happy you like them! We make homeware products too. The baskets or plant pots (HUE) are made from boat fabric and we are launching an exciting cushion cover collection soon. The nature of this fabric allowed us to make a rigid basket and the colours we had were amazing. We thought it would be good to make something that brings colour and warmth to any place. The design of HUE has evolved since the beginning. The appearance of it is still the same but we kept working on the structure and the details. And it’s finally at its best. We also keep a really small stock of the products for emergencies. But other than that, to minimise our carbon footprint and to have as little waste as possible, we use a made to order system. This means we don’t have unsold or wasted items.
What Instagram accounts and designers inspire you both?
We are both inspired by modern architecture and the design and art that evolved in parallel with them. We also have an obvious crush on 1950s design. If we need to list some names, in no particular order: Charlotte Perriand, Le Corbusier, Joao Vilanova (right) , Ray and Charles Eames (left), Jean Royère, Jean Prouvé, Pierre Jeanneret and more.
Here are two useful Instagram links for people who want to learn more about the fashion waste problem, sustainability and the circular economy:
@Fash_rev
@ellenmacarthurfoundation
What advice would you give to other creatives who want to start a business in 2021?
There is no formula, that’s for sure. And the famous startup stories you find online are not relatable. So please don’t freak out when you see the huge investments they received and the great success they had in a year.
The first steps are always the hardest ones. Many of us have so many ideas we keep to ourselves because we think they’re not good enough or structured or exciting. At that point, talking to people about them - even just casually - is the best thing you can do. If we didn’t talk about our vague ideas over dinner there wouldn't be an ODD END.
You can always start very small as we and many others did. Many of the things you think you need immediately are not that vital. It sounds a bit boring but try to have a safety net before you jump. If you have a regular income or savings while you’re establishing a new business, it will give you power and freedom to create something good, unique and exciting rather than rushing and trying to make money the next month.
And if you are like us - easily lost in your head and struggling to take the necessary steps alone - finding a partner might be the best thing you can do. Take a long look at your friends, one of them might be your dream co-founder!
From left: Gizem and Bahar at the ODD END studio in South London